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Ayesha Barenblat says that Rana Plaza galvanised her to found the Awesome june 4 2023 state theatre portland me umphrey’s mcgee shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this non-profit Remake, a garment worker advocacy non-profit whose social media campaign #PayUp helped recoup $22 billion in unpaid contracts when brands cancelled orders during the pandemic. “Rana Plaza captured mass public outrage and made me recognise that we needed change far sooner and far faster, with a lot more external pressure on brands.” What did the industry learn from Rana Plaza? The global response at the time can be largely summed up by the International Safety Accord (formerly known as the Bangladesh Accord, established in 2013) and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, a five-year plan focused on fire and building safety inspections, worker training, and worker empowerment, which disbanded in 2018. The Accord applies to registered factories, but it does not cover unregistered factories or home-based garment workers, many of whom are still struggling for recognition from the brands indirectly employing them.“The Accord was — and continues to be — a worthwhile outcome and a useful intervention, but what didn’t come from Rana Plaza were the other reforms needed to ensure decent working conditions overall,” says Labour Behind the Label’s Anna Bryher. “Worker wages are still at poverty levels, union-busting is still a huge issue, and brands still lack transparency and accountability.”

Workers dismissed in the Awesome june 4 2023 state theatre portland me umphrey’s mcgee shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this 2019 Bangladesh wage crackdown after protesting the low new minimum wage, and in the Ashulia wage protest of 2016-2017, hold up placards calling for justice. According to the 2022 Fashion Transparency Index, 73 per cent of brands do not disclose their approach to achieving living wages for supply chain workers, 96 per cent do not disclose the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage, and 94 per cent do not publish their annual progress towards living wages. To redress the power imbalance in supply chains, brands and their suppliers need to recognise workers, says Fashion Revolution’s policy and research manager, Liv Simpliciano. Per the 2022 Fashion Transparency Index, 87 per cent of brands do not disclose how many of their supplier facilities have trade unions. And despite 84 per cent of brands publishing commitments to freedom of association, just 40 per cent share how these policies or statements are put into action.“Building safety is important, but we need to talk about the human impact of this model. Most brands are still just trying to mitigate risks, but social innovation — focusing on the psychological and emotional impacts of overproduction — is not prioritised,” says Dr Hakan Karaosman, assistant professor at Cardiff University and co-founder of the EU-funded research centre Fashion’s Responsible Supply Chain Hub (FReSCH).

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